Summer Twist on Liner: Bright Blue & Mint Hues

It's good to switch things up a bit, especially with makeup. Sometimes we get into the routine of doing the same exact thing day after day. I am guilty of this, I usually rock a black liner and red lips all the time. Summer is here and we should be happy, even though not all of us have the luxury of being beach bums like those of you who live near a beach. So, why not bring a bit of the beach to your makeup routine to spunk it up a bit?

During the SS2015 Runway shows across the world we saw aquatic hues as well as mint and pastel colors grace the lids and bottom lash lines at the show. There was so much inspiration. These were my favorite:

*Peter Philips, the key at  the Fendi runway show created a bold graphic blue liner, but not in pencil, gel or cream...they used leather, he also used satin on the lids in pastel colors at the Dior show!!!

*Holly Fulton even had a statement ombre water line that started with bright blue at the outer edges and faded into a white.

*Terry Barber kept minimal makeup with a strong lower liner in black for Just Cavalli.

*For the Ellie Saab, key makeup artist Tom Pecheux kept it very interesting with bright aquatic hues, primarily in the blue family.

The great thing about being a creative artist is that all my friends are also fellow creatives and sometimes we get together to play and have fun. A couple weeks ago I got to spend the day with two of my best friends here in NYC. Photographer: Eduardo Acevedo and Hairstylist: Andrita Renee. We shot some fun looks.

For the makeup, I wanted to keep the skin clean and healthy and play with the eyes. Gathering inspiration from all of the SS2015 runway shows, I decided to do my own little spin by interchanging and mixing some of my favorite looks of the season.

For Carola @ Major, I opted to go with a color that would contrast and pop against her beautiful skin color. I did bright blue graphic line on lids, winged out in a straight angle.

The pencil I used is OCC Cosmetic Colour Pencil in "Pool Boy," it's also vegan and cruelty free. 

With Lauren @ Major, I decided to go a complete different route than to do a typical heavy liner on top lids like most people do with models and women that have smaller creases or no creases. It was a great opportunity to enhance her eyes by lighting filling in her full brows and going with a pastel, mint green lower liner. For this I used the pencil from the tear duct and drew going outward, finishing the wing detail with a Hakudo Pro Series liner brush. Using a small pencil brush also from Hakuhodo, I topped with the green color from the Dior 5 Couleurs Trianon Edition #234 Pastel Fontanges.

The eyeliner I used is by Nars, the Larger than Life Long-wear Eyeliner in "Barrow Street." 

Dior 5 Couleurs Trianon Edition #234 Pastel Fontanges.

I hope you ladies are courageous and switch up your makeup look during the summer, at least on one weekend outing. It doesn't even have to be something extreme, just a pop of color! Both liners I used are amazing but if not, use a bit of water, setting spray or rose water to foil your eyeshadow and apply with a brush to create a liner. 

*Photographer: Eduardo Acevedo, Hair: Andrita Renee. 

*Product images obtained from Sephora.com, Ebay.com and OCCmakeup.com

Makeup on Jackie Cruz aka Flaca Gonzalez from OITNB for the WPA Season 3 Premiere Party

I had the opportunity to do makeup on Orange is The New Black actress Jackie Cruz, also known as "Flaca Gonzalez" on the show. On the show Jackie, "Flaca" has some pretty solid eyeliner skills, that are even referenced on the show, with tear drops near her tear ducts. 

This past Friday, not only did she appear at the WPA Season 3 Premiere, but also performed singing solo, serenading Ruby Rose on stage and singing along with co-star Taryn Manning. 

To create Jackie's retro look with a modern twist and pop of fiery red lipstick, I used Chantecaille Beaute. 

Both SUGARPOP Latina as well as Latina.com had articles about the makeup look I created for Jackie. 

Check out the breakdowns here:

SUGARPOP Latina 

Latina Magazine Online

Below are some images of Jackie Cruz at the WPA Premiere Party for Season 3 of OITNB:

Photos courtesy of Quistyle and Instagram

Kid's Grooming...Makeup & Hair for Children

Photo source: uwmower.org

Kid's grooming is great and requires very little to almost no makeup. However, if you ever had any nephews, nieces or children of your own-you know that their hands always seem to get dirty and even the most clean of children can get messy.

Skin Prep:

Just as adults, skin prep is of essence when doing children's grooming. This is how I do it:

* Start off by using baby wipes to clean their face, nostrils, hands, feet and knees. I then take a soft tissue and remove eye gunk and crust, go over nostrils a second time. 

* Inspect hands and remove nail polish if girls have painted nails, making sure to clean under neath nails and try my best to remove all traces of marker or pen marks with nail polish remover. 

* Apply Johnson's Baby Lotion over arms, legs and feet as well as hands. The sunscreen option is great if you want a shiny dewy finish on skin. My pick for this is Coppertone Oil Free Lightweight and Fast Absorbing sunscreen for kids. (It's great because it won't clog pores and is dermatologist recommended.)

* Go back to the face and apply either baby lotion or kid's sunscreen on the face- if I'm aiming for a healthy glow. 

* Apply Homeoplasmine with a Q-tip or lip brush on lips since it doesn't have any shine. 

Makeup:

Kids usually have fabulous skin and virtually invisible pores, so makeup application is simple and I only use minimal product on their face. 

*Use foundation such as Armani "Luminous Silk Foundation" as a concealer under eyes and around the nostrils. (MAC Face & Body is a good option too.)

* Sometimes children have scrapes and scratches that have become scabs. To cover these, I use either Armani Maestro Concealer (it's a liquid concealer) or Tarte Creaseless Concealer and apply with a lip brush or a small pencil brush over the scab.

* Most of the kids have a natural rosy flush of color on their cheeks. If they are lacking in color I use Kevyn Aucoin cream blush in Isadore or their duo cream blushes  and choose according to light or darker skin tones. I apply with my hands or with an airbrush foundation brush on apples of cheeks. 

* If a sun kissed look is required- use a large fluffy brush to add a bit of warmth on forehead, cheeks nose and chin such as Marc Jacobs bronzer in Tantric #102. 

* Pass a brow brush through their brows 

Hair: 

Usually on most shoots involving kids, the ideal hair requested is their locks in their natural state. I very rarely do much. 

Boys:

* I run a brush or my fingers through their hair. 

* If it needs to be more piece-y then I warm up a bit of hair paste such as Kevin Murphy "Night Rider."  

* If they are sweaty, (from running around and playing while waiting to be on set),  then I blast cool air on  their hair with my  T3 Micro blow dryer. Seriously, I don't know what it is but the young boy models always have amazing hair and cuts. 

Girls:

I try and keep their hair the same as well, the goal is to keep their hair looking natural and not too "done." Sometimes I don't even brush their hair. 

*Just have them flip their hair over their face and I spray Bumble and Bumble Dry Spun finish soft texturizing spray. It gives that messy beach hair minus the crunch. 

* When their hair is a little on the oily side I spray the roots with dry hair shampoo. The one I carry in my kit is Oscar Blandi in spray form. 

* Some girls hair is curlier on the hair that falls on the nape of the neck so I take a large curling iron and pass it through that area, it tames down the curls but still leaves some texture and body. I then, take a wand and whirl a few pieces of hair on the top of hair with it to give waves, always keeping them looking natural and kind of beachy/messy. 

* For little girls with afros I either take a small curler and add a few spring curls on top or leave as is and simply spray Oscar Blandi Shine Spray and massage it in to add hydration and shine. 

When I am booked to do children's grooming, I make sure to bring hair ties, hair bands, and bobbi pins in bright, fun colors. It looks good on your behalf and those small touches can add the finishing touch to a cute ponytail or bun if that is asked from you to do on set. 

Most importantly, I find that treating the children like little adults and engaging with them in conversation is the best way to interact with them on set, especially while getting them prepped. They will surprise you with their thoughts and ideas, kid's say the most spontaneous things and are far more intelligent than we sometimes give them credit for. 

***Photo source:: uwmower.org***